Meet Remco De Nijs & Merrel Westhoff of G-Star RAW

 

When a brand is a runaway success, a majority of the time we attribute it to designers, or more specifically, the creative director. It's just a natural inclination to praise the person responsible for creating the pieces. However, there are others that work behind the scenes; those important, yet unsung talents whose job it is to take the designer's vision and translate it in such a way that it is relatable. This season, as I watched G-Star's presentation during New York Fashion Week, I was particularly impressed by the juxtaposition of textures which I thought was very pleasing to the eye and drew attention to the craftsmanship. This credit can be given almost solely to the stylists.

G-Star has a penchant for putting together large and glitzy presentations. Therefore, it takes a lot of expertise to make sure that eyes still focus on the collection. The main talents behind this are Remco De Nijs and Merrel Westhoff with whom I had the pleasure of meeting the day after the G-Star runway show. Both Remco and Merrel embody the brand's DNA which revels in contrasts. Remco is sort of a G-Star everyman with a charming smile and personality to match. A part of the company since 1997, he started out in export management, but now has his hands in PR, sales and collection styling. Merrel is a stunning former model with a background in design giving her that coveted combination of intelligence and beauty. She currently styles the company's photoshoots as well as runway shows.

These two are involved in many of the brand's initiatives from events like "RAW Nights", to working closely with collaborative designers like Marc Newson. As we chatted about their roles within the company, at one point we began to go through the Fall runway collection. As we were taking garments off the racks, I was blown away by their knowledge of textures and fabrics. They could have easily fooled me into believing they were part of the design team.

One of the most impressive events that they've worked on this year was at Bread & Butter Berlin. Remco and Merrel were part of the team that styled what they called "The Slow Show". The Slow Show (see below) was a private viewing in Berlin hosted by model-cum-"it" girl Agyness Deyn where models meandered through the audience on "tables" while VIPs sipped cocktails.

Think about it. Thirty models. At least one change each. Plus, an over-the-top venue. You really have to appreciate the skill.

 

 

 

 

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Taylor Jacobson

 

It's been awhile since we've done a "Five Questions for Five Pockets" interview. So it brings me nothing but joy that our latest one features none other then celeb stylist extraordinaire, Taylor Jacobson. Taylor has had one hell of a year, what with rising to fame as the indefatiguably, hard-working assistant to Rachel Zoe on her eponymous Bravo reality series not to mention her tumultuous departure.

With her latest endeavor Taylor is proving the age old adage "Success is the best revenge". Adding designer to her multi-hyphenated title, she recently partnered with premium brand Kasil Jeans and has bounced back nicely. Her capsule collection "Kasil + Taylor Jacobson" is the first collaboration involving Kasil's The Workshop, which is a platform for partnerships with young talent in styling, music and contemporary art.

The Fall/Winter 2010 collection, smartly, reflects a little of Taylor's personal style and the line, which is already in stores, has been well recieved with my personal fave being the "Geek" peg leg trouser.

Stylist-cum-designer has got to be the perfect storm of fashion and that makes us all the more ecstatic to bring to you Taylor's answers to "Five Questions for Five Pockets".

1. What was your first pair of jeans?

Vintage Levi's were my first cool pair in 6th grade.

 

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?

Denim? That's a tough one. But I know Jane Birkin is my style icon. And she looked good in anything!

 

3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend?

Inserts are huge. Half denim/half leather...mixing fabrics.

 

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?

Embrace all trends. Some trends just do not work for denim.

 

5. What's your number one rule for denim?

Wear what's comfortable.

 

 

You can purchase items from Kasil + Taylor Jacobson collection on Tobi.com. 

 

 

 

 

Shubhankar Ray: G-Star RAW Visionary

There are some people that learn how to be creative, whether it's from school, their environment or personal inspiration, but there are others, a chosen few if you will, that are born with a natural creative inclination that can not be contained no matter what paths others have laid before them.

Recently, I visited the Soho offices of G-Star RAW to meet Global Brand Director Shubhankar Ray who was visiting from the UK. I knew very little about him before then, but what I did know was quite impressive. Many of the original, experimental and groundbreaking concepts that come from the brand, such as the RAW Gallery, a pop-up installation that houses gallery style exhibitions of the runway collection as well as highly conceptualized pieces from the design team, come from the mind of Shubhankar. He is also responsible for creating the RAW Icon program which has seen superstars like Dennis Hopper and Benicio Del Toro participating as the first and second RAW Icons respectively. Another program he has facilitated is G-Star's involvement with the UN's Millennium campaign, a cause committed to ending world poverty. According to Shubhankar, social responsibility is not an option, but a condition of doing business today and he has committed the brand to the UN mission until 2015. The list goes on and on and it would be easy to rave about his accomplishments, which he graciously credits to the members of his team, and are numerous enough to fill several pages of any magazine. However, what I found most impressive was his far from ordinary backstory and a novel concept he liked to call "Mindstyle".

Armed with a Chemistry degree from one of the top five Universities in England, Shubhankar worked nights for UK band New Order which exposed him to London underground music and culture. Eventually, becoming disillusioned with his day job, he went on to get an MBA and was moved to the marketing department. The disparity of being a scientist working in the Marketing department would eventually kick off a creative philosophy of juxtaposed elements, unexpected combinations and changes of context that can be seen throughout his work and most prominently in G-Star RAW programs.

According to Shubhankar, there is no selling of a lifestyle when it comes to branding ---an idea which is in direct contrast to the philosophies of mainstream companies--- but only the offering of styling possibilities. To expand on this idea, he regards the G-Star design team, not as product designers, but as product engineers who offer styling solutions to consumers. This all is incorporated into a term which he's coined called "Mindstyle."

Mindstyle, is the opposite of lifestyle. It is more of an intellectual concept that gives consumers more chances to engage with the brand. As an outsider, his creative philosophy of contrasts combined with the concept of Mindstyle, at first, might seem confusing, but when talking to Shubhankar it all made perfect sense. Case-in-point, G-Star's current campaign features the world's number 1 chess player and youngest Grandmaster ever Magnus Carlsen as the face of the brand, alongside the beautiful and soft spoken Liv Tyler. It's the perfect example of fashion meets IQ, and the programs surrounding the campaign, such as the Raw World Chess Challenge, are interactive and engage the public intellectually while still promoting the G-Star brand. As Shubhankar also points out, it's the juxtaposition of eliticism and democracy as the world collectively (by vote) will decide on a chess move against Magnus with the help of three of the top grandmasters of chess.

I asked Shubhankar if he thought his background in science was the source of his unique approach to fashion and branding. His response was both surprising and uncomplicated. He explained that science is about simplifying complex processes. When considering trailblazers like Einstein, who utilized abstract thinking when developing new theories and experiments, it's actually quite easy to see that there is a very fine line between the creative forces of science and art.

My meeting with Shubhankar went over about 30 minutes as I was wholely absorbed in our discussion. I'm around creatives all the time in my business and many have abstract ideas which, I sometimes find to be esoteric and...well...out there. It's a rarity, and quite refreshing, to meet someone who is dynamic, inspiring and frankly, makes sense.

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Marck Marcellus, Goldspun No. 7

We had the pleasure of meeting Marck Marcellus, Creative Director of Goldspun No. 7, a few weeks back and were impressed by the laid back demeanor of the brain behind this innovative premium brand. Marcellus can boast a well-rounded resume in the fashion industry from sales, to buyer, to design and a whole lot in between. Consequently, it seems starting his own line was a natural evolution and a no-brainer. 

Goldspun was founded in 2007 by Marcellus and three other partners who set out to create a line of fully-functioning garments that were tasteful and broaden one's interpretation of fashion. He describes the partnership as having lots of chemistry as "each partner plays a key and significant role." What they achieved is a denim line for both men and women where utility meets elegance. Raw japanese denim of the highest quality is used to create an aesthetic that combines classically tailored and refined looks with functionality. The high level of workmanship and attention to detail that goes into each garment has led Goldspun to attract a select set of celebrity tastemakers in a relatively short time, such as Usher and hot new sensation, Kid Cudi. All it takes is one look at the Fall 2009 men's line (see below) to understand why. Marcellus describes Goldspun as a "gift from heaven. A golden opportunity." It is this kind of love of fashion and devotion to creating a great product, that makes us proud to include him in this installment of Five Questions for Five Pockets. 

1. What was your first pair of jeans?

I'll never forget our first family vacation wearing these Dark Blue Lee Jeans with one of those floral shirts to match my Dad's. Parents are hippies.

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?

For me I will have to say Bob Marley with the crazy Cut & Sew denim shirts and tight denim jeans.

3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend?

Pencil cut and tuxedo denim silhouettes. That's all I personally wear.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?

I'm not into the tie-dye, skin tight look. No offense.

5. What's you number one rule for denim?

Start with some raw jeans, preferably Goldspun Denim, and let them take, mold to you, and your life's journeys. 

FYI-Make you sure you check out their hot new website with the hot soundtrack. 

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Daniel Carman, Over The Rainbow

(Daniel Carmen (left) and Joel Carmen of Over the Rainbow)

With over 32 years in the business, Toronto-based Over the Rainbow has the largest selection of jeans in the entire country of Canada and can easily boast as being one of the longest running stores dedicated to denim in North America. There's a reason behind that kind of longevity and it can be directly attributed to
 a love and understanding of what makes denim 'premium' from fabric development to cut and fit. There's also a deep appreciation for the history of the jean and a knowledgeable staff found in only the best denim stores. Throughout the years, Over the Rainbow has become a destination site with scores of prominent celebs patronizing the  shop known for its famed denim walls and extensive offerings, as well as an alterations department. Founded in 1975, by Joel Carman, with only $2000 in cash, the history of Over the Rainbow, can easily become a part of denim lore should it last another 32 years. It's because of this extensive knowledge and rich history that we are pleased to have Daniel Carman, for this installment of Five Questions for Five Pockets. 

1. What was your first pair of jeans?

Back in the early days of our store, the only premium denim brands around were Levi's, Big Star, Replay and Diesel. So my first pair of jeans could be any Levi 501, Big Star Digger, Replay 901 or Diesel Keetar. We have customers age 60 coming in still asking for those exact jeans. It stuns them when a young guy like me even knows about them. 

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?

I'd probably say a whole series of denim designers who changed the face of jean designs, but the icon to me is every teenager in the 1970's who had the courage to rebel and wear jeans in a different way their parents did. Without that movement, jeans would not be seen, worn and sought after in the same ways they are today.

3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend?

So many denim trends have come and gone that it's really difficult to predict the "next" trend. I think the whole "boyfriend" craze is paving the way for another revival of "vintage denim", if it's not here already. I also know of a couple of brands that specialize in "raw denim" coming out with some amazingly innovative fabrications that will blow people's minds!

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?

It's going away already, but crystals are meant to be worn as jewelry. They have no place on a jeans. It's not a natural look at all.

5. What's your number one rule for denim?

If you want to preserve the look of a jean, don't wash it so much. Denim doesn't retain dirt as easily as other fabrics, so wait before you wash them a million times. I wait months to wash my jeans (sometimes never at all), and if I've washed them more than four times (which could take years), they become jeans to lounge around at home.

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Anthony Frym, The Lab of Denim USA

 

We recently caught up with French designer Anthony Frym, owner and Design Director of The Lab of Denim USA.  Upon walking into his New York City showroom we noticed racks and racks of jeans, all unique, hanging in recesses in the wall surrounded by gilded frames.  We immediately learned that with The Lab of Denim USA it is all about the details.  There are several different ranges being offered where even the most basic jean is far from ordinary.  Frym is not afraid to experiment with different washes/finishes and the effects produced are entirely unique. An added bonus is the super cool wooden hangtag that comes with several styles including a Limited Edition range that only has 200 pieces available.  Although a fairly new brand, The Lab of Denim USA is ready to hit the ground running.  There are a ton of styles, with varying washes and silhouettes, covering every market that the showroom looks more like a boutique.  The offspring of another old and well established brand called New London USA, The Lab of Denim is sure to duplicate the same success. With Frym's denim heritage and unique take on denim we were excited to include him in this installment of Five Questions for Five Pockets.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?

As coming from France my first pair was Lee Cooper or Ober

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?

In the industry would be, Renzo Rosso, Raymond Obermajter, Adriano Goldshmeid. In show biz, Serge Gainsbourg who represents for me the ultimate denim arrogance.

3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend?

The individuality of each wash. A sort of "educational story" between the consumer and the denim. A meaning and story behind each wash and nearly giving away the magic secrets. That is what at the Lab of Denim USA I bring with our limited edition.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?

I love denim in and out. I respect any trends, designer or aspect of it ... Denim or trends for me are unusual fairy tales!

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
No rules, never stop thinking, never listen, never say no, never say ugh! The denim is a "live item", that the world will never stop wearing, loving, hating.

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Chloe Lonsdale of MiH Jeans

 

If you think that London-based brand MiH jeans is just another label hopping on the premium denim bandwagon than you don't know jeans. It's history dates back to the 1960's where, founded by Tony O'Gorman, it was launched to fame by Tony Lonsdale the founder of popular UK denim emporium "The Jean Machine" whose stores numbered over 150 by the 1970's. During it's heyday, the then titled Made in Heaven jeans developed a terrific following of some of the most iconic names in celebrity and fashion, such as Farrah Fawcett and Jane Birkin of "Birkin Bag" notoriety.

After a hiatus, the brand has come back with a vengeance under the helm of Chloe Lonsdale, offspring of Tony and his top model wife Chekkie Maskell and goddaughter of Tony O'Gorman. Under the new moniker MiH jeans, the brand has managed to update itself for a new generation while still paying homage to its roots. Chloe Lonsdale finds the inspiration for most of her designs from the archives of the brand, putting together a line that is defined by tailored looks that are both classic and sophisticated.  With a rich denim heritage that few denim designers can claim we are super-ecstatic to feature Chloe Lonsdale in this installment of our Five Questions for Five Pockets series.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?
They were a pair from my Dad's stock trunk in the attic at home. They were made by Male, a 70's brand, and had jet front pockets, bell bottoms and no back pockets and were the bestselling style when he launched The Jean Machine. They were also three sizes too big for me and I had to hitch them up with a belt, but it felt pretty cool at the time!

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?
As a muse, Brooke Shields, as a mentor Calvin Klein. Their collaboration together was groundbreaking and I'm still over the moon today after seeing Brooke in MiH jeans!

3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend?
Its no longer about basic, unstyled jeans, but about properly finished ones with traditional rivets and most of all great quality denim that wears well. I also feel double denim will be seen more, with fine, washed out denim shirts and classic denim jackets making a comeback. This new denim trend will be much more sophisticated than the ripped and torn look of past decades. Jeans, however old and faded, will be washed, pressed and discreetly mended and worn with shirts elegantly tucked in. There will be an emphasis on great quality fits rather than embellishment.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?
Torn ripped denim with fake dirty, bleached out washes! Denim is dyed with indigo which is a natural product that is meant to evolve and improve with age. Buying a forced look that is a moment in time makes the jean date quickly and yet a good pair of jeans should be timeless and stay with you forever!

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
Wear a style that suits your figure shape, not what is in fashion at any point in time. Not everyone suits skinny jeans and they certainly aren't the most flattering cut. Jeans should be the base of your wardrobe and a fall back for anything and you should feel and look great in them always.

Five Questions for Five Pockets: [city of others]

We have met with many denim designers since the inauguration of DenimHunt.com, but there have been few with a story as interesting as that of Steve Opperman and Steve Dubbeldam of [city of others]. [city of others] is described as representing a community of youthful, global citizens who share a love for art, music, people, culture, denim and anyone who has dreams of making their mark on the world. In keeping with that philosophy, for every pair of [city of others] jeans you purchase, a part of each sale goes to the charity of your choice. The Steves began their careers as far from the fashion industry as possible with one working as a lawn mower and the other as a graphic designer, yet they had a love of denim and a keen eye for details that could not be denied.  The Steves have come a long way from their roots in tweaking vintage denim pieces and are now a bonafide premium denim brand currently featured in the September issue of InStyle magazine.  If this is any indication, expect to hear a lot about [city of others]. In the meantime, we are super-thrilled to feature the Canadian-born, but California-stamped Steves in our current installment of Five Questions for Five Pockets.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?
To be honest we can't even remember, probably something our mom got us with that rad stretchy waistband feature

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?
James Dean on a motorbike with cuffed jeans and old leather boots is pretty inspirational for us.

3. What do you think is the next hot denim trend?
We think that jeans will keep getting cleaner and more basic with a rolled hem for men's and for women's a more rock n' roll distressed jean. More slouchy silhouettes with dropped-crotches are going to be really fresh and forward. And we think that the biggest trend is brands that are committed to being socially-conscious and we're trying to lead the way in that for denim.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?
It all comes and goes and we just laugh when we see trends that are horrible but I think it's safe to say that we're all tired of embellished jeans. Don't get me wrong, I'm all about details and well thought out trims but I mean, let's just let jeans be jeans.

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
It's gotta fit great and the company should reflect the person wearing the jeans. It's always been our goal to make jeans that people are proud to put on and be associated with.

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Eli and Moshe Azran, THE UNKNOWN FACTORY

Recently, we were flipping through the August issue of Lucky with Leighton Meester on the cover and gasped when we spotted a pair of skinny jeans with a pleated detail going down both sides. What an amazing idea, we thought. So, of course we looked for the description and discovered that they were the "Skinny Pleats" made by a company called THE UNKNOWN FACTORY. THE UNKNOWN FACTORY was co-founded by brothers Eli and Moshe Azran, both of whom have impressive backgrounds in the premium denim industry.  Their company is based in Los Angeles where every pair of jeans is handmade giving them the feel of custom tailored pants. Rejecting the logo trend on the back pockets that's prevalent on most premium brands, THE UNKNOWN FACTORY jeans are distinguishable by original, yet subtle detailing with the goal being to compliment rather than overpower.  We were able to catch up with the super-talented Eli and Moshe and are excited to feature them in our Five Questions for Five Pockets series.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?
Eli: First pair of jeans, wow, probably Diesel

Moshe: APC denim

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?
Eli: Serge Gainsbourg

Moshe: Everyone! I love people that have these super old worn out jeans. I really appreciate that.

3. What are your current favorite jeans?
Eli: I love Tsubi, Nudie and Dior Homme.

Moshe: Still APC's. I live in them year long. As a man, I think you only need 2-3 pairs of jeans in your closet.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?
Eli: I hate rhinestones and jeans that you can see from 10 miles away

Moshe: The denim suit!!!

5. What's your number one rule for denim?
Eli: Fit, so important because if you have a pair that fits right they could be from Target and that would be better then wearing a pair of Dior jeans that fit like crap!

Moshe: Never mix and match different denims!!!

Look for their new Fall collection in Barneys New York, Henri Bendel, Intermix, Ron Herman and shopbop.com. 

 
 
 

Five Questions for Five Pockets: Lynn Downey, Levi Strauss

We already clued you in to the new Levi's book penned by Lynn Downey(left,) the brand historian for Levi Strauss. This time, we were lucky enough to bend her ear for a bit for our Five Questions for Five Pockets series.

1. What was your first pair of jeans?

I think it was a pair of Levi's For Gals beige jeans covered with orange flowers. That must have been about 1968 or something. I eventually graduated to 5-pocket denim, though when I entered high school in California in 1969, girls were not allowed to wear pants to school. We could wear pants in our senior year, 1972, but not jeans. So I would get home from school and jump into my Levi's jeans. I'm the third generation (at least) of my family to wear Levi's jeans.

2. Who do you think is the ultimate denim icon?

Well, I think I'd have to say....Levi Strauss! Anyone who invents a product that people are still wearing more than 130 years later has earned icon status in my book.  Other than Levi, I would have to name the anonymous working man of the 19th century as the ultimate denim icon: our first customer, the man who made Levi's jeans part of the DNA of America.

3. What are your current favorite jeans?

Ooh, my 525 boot cut jeans. Love these jeans, they are a fabulous fit, especially on my 53-year-old body. I also love my Levi's Capital E "Swank" jeans.

4. What denim trend do you wish would go away?

You know, I like all denim trends. That's because I love how versatile denim is, you can do so much with it, and I love to see how creative people get with denim, whether it's design, finishing, or packaging. As a historian it's a treat for me to work all day with vintage Levi's jeans, and then go out on the street and see the modern interpretation of the original.

5. What's your number one rule for denim?

Wear it everywhere!

PHOTO: Hangauer/Kissinger