DenimHunt

Denim on the Runway: Paris Menswear: Jean Paul Gaultier

Jean Paul Gaultier's presentation for Spring/Summer 2010 differed from the masses. All of the characteristics that have been trending up till now were nowhere to be seen. Instead we were treated to dark, seemingly unfinished denim with a subtle sheen. Red stitching reminded us of the old-red neon signs from the '50's and was even more edgier when outlining the criss-crossing denim straps circling the legs or elsewhere. 

Not exactly wearable, but certainly very interesting were the denim corsets for men. Inspired by the traditional denim jacket, the corsets were androgynous to say the least. 

Denim on the Runway: Milan Menswear: Vivienne Westwood

I think it's pretty safe to say that denim at Vivienne Westwood was just for fun or better yet, for inspirational purposes only. The super-dropped crotch with a button-fly was extreme but who knows how this will be reinterpreted in stores...the button-fly harem jean?

Denim on the Runway: Milan Menswear: Missoni

Missoni was a sea of blue. Loose fitting jeans, more suitable for the homeless, were cuffed and layered with chambray shirts and denim blazers creating a tonal effect that was quite pleasing to the eye. A slight sheen was added in some instances and in others an antiqued patina was applied that was a direct contrast to the rich blue. 

Denim on the Runway: Milan Menswear: John Richmond

British-born, Milan-based designer John Richmond's Spring/Summer 2010 presentation varied from jazzing up basic jeans with rips and tears to an all out explosion of color in hot pink jeans. The one skinny jean coming down the runway highlighted the down trend of this silhouette for men this season to be replaced by slim but roomier silhouettes. Richmond's offerings were in line with what has been prevalent on other runways this season with cuffs, tears and abrasions appearing throughout the show. 

Denim on the Runway: Milan Menswear: Iceberg

I think it's safe to say, after viewing several of the menswear shows, that abraded, well-worn jeans are back after not too long a time being 'out'. The difference between this time and last time is in the preppy styling. Cuffs were prevalent in the Iceberg show with some rolled so high we were dazzled by the manly ankle. 

Denim on the Runway: Milan Menswear: Etro

Etro kept it simple with the denim they sent down the runway this season opting to let the styling make a statement. Washes were a well-worn faded blue or a completely bleached out sky-blue with only one crisp indigo seen in the collection. Cuffs were trendy while bright splashes of color in shoes, shirts, jackets and candy-colored belts made them current. 

Denim on the Runway: Milan Menswear: DSquared2

DSquared's presentation at the Spring/Summer 2010 shows in Milan left nothing for interpretation. If you didn't get from the fisherman hats, wellies, trucker caps or sleeping bags what the theme was then you must be blind. After snagging the costumers job for Britney's Circus Tour we know the duo are prone to theatrics. 

The denim in this show was abraded and worn, a recurring theme for this season. When the jeans weren't tucked into boots, cuffing was the preferred method; seen even on knee-length shorts. Can't finish without the requisite rips and tears. Add them all together with DSquared's signature styling and you still get something quite prep believe it or not. 

 

Denim on the Runway: Milan Menswear: Dolce & Gabbana

How do they have the time? Another unexpected collection of denim came down the runway for Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's namesake brand. The scissors reigned free on loose fitting jeans with exaggerated rips and random tears, shredded almost to the point of obscurity. Worn over what looked like printed, pajamas, Dolce & Gabbana may have just redefined layering for menswear. Conspicuous cuffs and slick blazers took the decidedly workwear denim into a whole new dimension. 

Denim on the Runway: Milan Menswear: Dirk Bikkembergs

Belgian designer, Dirk Bikkembergs, best known for his affinity for dressing footballers (soccer players for you Americans) sent a collection down the runway that had us literally seeing red...and purple. Every ounce of denim coming down the runway, with few exceptions, had a purple overdye, with abrasions exposing the red cast. The ever-present rips and shreds created surface interest. In addition, layered foliage prints on denim, reminiscent of camouflage were tonal in reds and blue-grays...camofoliage! 

Showing in the Milan menswear shows was a capstone to a year that saw Bikkemberg opening his first flagship store in Milan earlier this year. 

Denim on the Runway: Milan Menswear: D&G

D&G's Spring/Summer 2010 show can be summed up in one word... "Wow!" Or another word, "Va-va-va-voom!" Or better yet, it just left us speechless. The eye candy models almost made it hard for us to pay attention to the clothing...almost. Lucky for us, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana's sun-baked cowboy take on denim was hard to ignore and surprisingly unexpected. 

Body-flattering, rugged and scorched denim, with every possible abuse imaginable, graced the oh-so-toned physiques of the male models moseying down the runway. Denim on denim made an appearance, as well as the expected rips and unexpected studs (a little bit of womenswear creeping into the men's department). Even more unexpected was the reintroduction of khaki denim, also abraded and beaten, as well as the two-toned indigo jeans dyed to resemble paneling. To surprise us even more, the rugged denim was sometimes paired with slick blazers.